Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier


Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

A North Cascades Classic (and Smoot!) over Memorial Day weekend.

  • Sat, May 25, 2024 — Mon, May 27, 2024
  • Foothills Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,500 ft

Shannon Ridge TH @ time TBD. Northwest Forest or National Parks pass required. 

Click [MORE+] to read all notes before requesting permission.

  • This trip is full with a waitlist. I'm not accepting any additional permission requests at this time.
  • The plan is to climb the central gulley. A potential alternative would be a climb of the Southeast Rib (5.4 rock).  You must have experience with exposed rock scrambling and rappelling multiple pitches in the alpine. This should not be your first big mountain.
  • The permit is already secured. Participants are expected to reimburse the leader their share of the permit prior to the climb ($10/person).
  • The plan is to do this Sat-Sun or Sun-Mon, depending on which has the better weather. If the forecast is poor for the whole weekend, expect the trip to be canceled.
  • If you are going to cancel, do so before May 17th.

Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

  • Green Trails Lake Shannon No. 46

    Green Trails Mt Shuksan No. 14

    USGS Shuksan Arm

    USGS Mt Shuksan

    Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13SX
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports