Alpine Scramble - Mount Forgotten
Sat, Aug 27, 2016
6 of us climbed Mt. Forgotten on 8/27/16. It was a very pleasant trip, although too cloudy for much in the way of views.
6 of us climbed Mt. Forgotten on 8/27/16. It was a very pleasant trip, although too cloudy for much in the way of views.
Basic rock climb up the 5.5 south arete.
Easy, breezy ascent of the east ridge (not following the route described by Becky).
Tides and weather were perfect for this trip. We launched as the tide was rising at Allyn Waterfront Park and paddled south around the west side of Reach Island to the State Park on Stretch Island where we took a break and had lunch. Then we paddled the east side of Stretch, around the south end, and to the west side while there was plenty of water to cover the tide flats. Then we crossed Case Inlet to Vaughn Bay and back to Allyn. We observed seals, porpoise, an Osprey diving for fish, a Kingfisher, and other sea birds. The afternoon wind from the north cooled the temperatures. We also did rescue practice for one person doing this trip as a student paddle.
This is a deceiving climb. The short approach distance of 3.95 miles; the relatively low net gain to the summit; the “simple” 5.4 Chimney rock pitch; and lack of need for additional technical skills beyond setting a handline, and rappelling all lend one to believe it is a straight forward basic rock climb. What is lurking in the shadows is that: • This trip is about 80% off trail and involves steep traverses on talus, scree and slippery forest duff • The summit bid is steep and trail less • Once on the red-face: o The climbing team will be dealing with hours of non-stop class 4 exposure and steep gullies with loose rocks to send down on the climbing team o There is a rather lengthy series of 8-9 linked faces, gullies, chimneys, scrambles, etc to get to the summit. All of these complexities make this an advanced, basic climb. We had a strong group of rope leads and students and as it was - even without summiting - we had an 18 hour day from the camp, to the turn point, and back to the trailhead. So Climb leaders beware! I recommend this either be done as a 3 day climb, or only with a very small, strong, competent group that is not fearful of prolonged exposure! If I was doing this as a private climb, I would do it as a 2-day climb and limit the group size to 2 climbers.
A very good trip with big views. Would suggest going on a weekday, although Sunday's seem to not be too crowded. Hikers should be fit as last 1,200' is steep.
Paddled 5 .2 nm just short of Steamboat Island. Nice evening. Calm seas. 80+ degrees.
Very nice trip weather was great on the first two days. Strong wind developed over night resulting sk IV conditions for part of the return trip.
A classic climb everyone should do.
Excellent climb with a good approach and no other parties. Very surprising there is almost no interest in the climb outside the Mountaineers.
Excellent trip with great people!
One day circuit of ascending the Quien Sabe and descending the Sahale glaciers.
Successful late season climb of Baker.
This trip was a leisurely 11 nm paddle with pleasant, warm weather and light and variable winds. Great kayak conditions, especially for this one-way itinerary.
good instruction before and during the sail. also nice to see the computer trip marked on screen after the sail by the Rose program
The ramp is not quite ready to support solid ice screw placements. We had bomber picket anchors and questionable ice screw placements between.
Jan was the primary leader and Manisha was the mentored leader for this climb. The team successfully summited on Saturday 8/20 and came all the way back to the cars.
Beautiful and cooler visit to Mount Stone via Lake of the Angels on 8/21/16 of ~10 miles and ~5300' gain.