Intermediate Lecture #3 - Anchors - Mountaineers Tacoma Program Center

Tacoma Program Center 7 PM, upstairs classroom

Discussion and practice building SERENE 2 and 3 point anchors

Reading:

• Climbing Anchors, 2^nd edition, John Long and Bob Gaines, ISBN 0762723262
  • Chapter 5: Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut
  • Chapter 6: Judging the Direction of Pull
  • Chapter 7: Knots for Anchoring
  • Chapter 8: SERENE Anchors
  • Chapter 9: Belay Anchors
• Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9^th edition
  • Part II Climbing Fundamentals
  • Part V. Leadership, Safety, and Rescue
• Anchors in series (when you have sub-par placements):  http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2018/07/anchors-in-series.html
• 12-point rock climbing assessment system (we are not testing on placements yet, however I think it's worthwhile discussing that sub-par placements exist, and how to assess/compensate for them with anchor-craft):
  • https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-the-12-point-trad-anchor-rubric/
  • http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2012/12/the-12-point-anchor-system.html
• Masterpoint vs. Shelf: https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/6/27/the-masterpoint-the-shelf-the-components-anchor-anatomy-in-action
• Good article on personal anchors and failures: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=qc-lab-personal-anchor-systems-explained

Videos:

• Comprehensive anchors video: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto
• 3 piece static anchors with cordelette and double runner (make sure to watch both - they have different great information):
  
  • https://youtu.be/3Dx2w358rWY
  • https://youtu.be/qYvaJaDsSPU
• 2-piece and 3-piece quads: https://youtu.be/GfAfIMY5lz0
• Anchor building - angles and load forces:  https://youtu.be/X0SP85S1m4Q
  • Great video to show angles and forces, however it is important note that when the load transitions and the video shows the forces on each piece, it is for a STATICALLY equalized anchor. This is why you should get good at building dynamically equalized anchors - in case you misjudge the direction of pull.