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Seattle MAC - Alpine Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Youth activity: Mountaineers Adventure Club

Seattle MAC - Alpine Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

6/14 update: due to a scheduling conflict that arose for one of the volunteers, this climb is now in a TBD status.

Contacts

Carl Marrs
Carl Marrs
Primary Leader
Qualified Youth Leader
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft

see trip sheet for details

Preference in registration for this climb will be given to Seattle MAC students who have not yet been on a glacier climb. You must be registered for Snow 2 in order to register for this climb. 

Prerequisites: 

For alpine rock climbs:

Skills/workshops: Multi-pitch systems, belay escape, rappelling, lead climbing / lead belaying

Other courses/trips: Wilderness First Aid (WFA) course/badge, Leavenworth Multi-Pitch trip / successful multi-pitch climb, Summer Trip / successful muti-pitch climb there

If glacier climb: In addition to all of the above: Crevasse rescue workshop, glacier climbing fundamentals (at least 2), Snow 1, Snow 2

Route/Place

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


  • USGS Glacier Peak West
    USGS Glacier Peak East
    USGS Sloan Peak
    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX
    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112
    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Personal Gear to bring: **can borrow from Mountaineers

  • Clothes
    • **Gaiters: REQUEST THROUGH GEAR LIBRARY - NOT AVAILABLE FROM MAC. CONTACT HANNAHT@MOUNTAINEERS.ORG 
    • Effective layering system
      • Breathable clothes for hiking/climbing
      • Water/wind proof layers (raincoat / rain pants)
      • Insulative layers (fleece midlayer, puffy outer layer, long johns for night)
    • Extra socks/underwear for night
    • Change of clothes for car ride
  • Shoes—mountaineering boots
    • Consider bringing trailrunners/sneakers for long approach
  • **Technical equipment—crampons, ice axe, harness, picket, crevasse rescue gear (pulley+locker, 2 prusiks+locker, 2 single slings+non-lockers, 2 double slings, 3 lockers, 3 non-lockers)
  • Food—lunch, snacks, and some form of breakfast (bar, oatmeal, etc.)
  • 2l water capacity (a camelbak + nalgene works well, or 2x nalgenes)
  • 10 essentials
    • Especially sun protection - sunglasses, hat, sun screen
    • Headlamp / extra batteries
    • toiletries/personal items
    • Navigation - compass, gps
    • lighter/matches
    • Repair kit (knife, multi-tool, duct tape, cordage, etc.)
    • Electrolyte tabs
    • Personal first aid kit (especially blister protection/treatment)
    • At least one person should have a space blanket/emergency shelter
    • Make sure you have good layering to stay warm in wind/rain/inclement weather
  • **tent or
  • Bivvy sack
  • Sleeping bag/pad/puffy coat for pillow or backcountry pillow of some sort
Trip Reports