WMCR - Experience Trip 1 - Rescue + Emergency Preparedness - Paradise

Part 1. Hiking in- let's discuss putting together rope teams (mixed experience, weight differences, # of people vs. # of ropes), walking perpendicular to crevasses, making sure to make terrain observations, communicate to teams about breaks/stopping in safe zones etc.

Part 2. Placeing pickets as vertical and deadmen, did improvised belays with ice ax, attaching oneself to axe and sitting and belaying off harness or quick hip belays etc.

Part 3. Protecting traverses and bringing folks in.

Snack break and more sunscreen- short discussion about building snow shelters, white-outs and making waypoints as you go, being aware of terrain that gets you out of the wind and elements as you go.

Part 4: Rescue scenario practice. Scenario 1 - leader falls, you have two people to set up a rescue either c pulley or 3:1, work together to be as fast as possible. Scenario 2: fallen climber and the rope is super entrenched and not enough rescue rope to do a c-pulley because one team is on a 30m rope, how does the second rope team come in and get utilized. Scenario 3: Middle climber falls in, other climber can't help much because hard to get back over so climber holding the arrest is forced to create anchor on their side (similar to a 2 person rescue scenario), assume there are rescue coils to allow for a 6:1 to set up.