Mount Daniel/Lynch Glacier

A moderate, 1,800 foot, glacier climb up the north side of Mount Daniel was the route of the first recorded ascent, made in 1925 by a Mountaineer Party. The peak is located in the heart of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. In late season, crevasses add to the challenge. Times: 2 hr trailhead to camp, 3-5 hr camp to summit.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS

Take I-90 about 27 mi east of Snoqualmie Pass to the Roslyn exit (about 1 mi west of Cle Elum exit). Follow the Cle Elum River Road (SR 903) to Salmon La Sac. A few yards past the Ranger Station, keep right on a rough dirt road (Forest Road 4330). Drive about 12 mi to the end of the road and the Cathedral Rock trailhead (Trail No. 1345; elevation 3,350 ft). 

APPROACH

Hike the Cathedral Rock Trail to Squaw Lake at 2.5 mi. Continue up trail to Cathedral Pass (5,550 ft).Turn left (west) onto the Pacific Crest Trail. In less than 0.5 mi, turn right (northwest) onto Trail No. 1375 (do not follow the Pacific Crest Trail down to Deep Lake). Follow Trail No. 1375 past Cathedral Rock to Peggy's Pond at 5,560 ft and camp nearby. This is the shorter approach (longer summit day) and avoids the brush of the alternate approach.

Early Season alternative

From Deception Pass Trailhead, continue past the upper end of the Hyas Lakes about .25 mi (3+ miles from the trailhead, 3,500 ft). Here, cross the stream and watch for ribbon markers going up Lynch Draw.

There are two routes between Hyas Lake and Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) — the left one is the better choice. Continue up until you cross PCT at about 4,000 ft. Follow PCT northwest about 150 yards and leave the trail at a stream bed.

Follow stream bed until basin is reached. Stay to the left of the stream, working over to low ridge (way trail on crest of ridge) to Lynch Gap at 6,250 ft (about 2 mi. from PCT). The trails are faint and easily lost and regained.

Late Season alternative

If late in season, Lynch Draw may be flooded. Lynch Glacier can be reached by ascending the ridge between Lynch and Daniel Glaciers a couple hundred yards to first minor notch; then cross the ridge and descend snow slopes to Lynch Glacier. Camp near Pea Soup Lake at glacier’s base (be prepared to camp on snow).

ASCENT ROUTE

From camp at Peggy's Pond, climb to 6,300' on the east ridge. Traverse below the Daniel Glacier at 6,100-6,300' to the vicinity of Lynch draw. Walk across frozen Pea Soup Lake and get on the ice above low rocks. Ascend glacier to the gap between the two highest summits (in late season, expect detour around the crevasses 2/3 of the way up). The west summit on the right of the notch is the highest. No credit is given for ascending either the SE Ridge or Hyas Creek Glacier to the upper Daniel Glacier from Peggy's Pond (both are scrambles).

From camp at Pea Soup Lake, in early season, walk across frozen Pea Soup Lake to get on the Lynch Glacier. Later on, when Pea Soup Lake melts out, one can NOT walk around the lake due to cliffs and the receding Lynch Glacier.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the scramble route to the camp at Peggy’s Pond or the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENTTIME (HR)ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 2.5
Trailhead to Camp 4-6 3,000
Camp to Summit 3-5 1,800
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment.

NOTES

  • USGS topo maps mislabel the summit. The true summit is the west peak.
  • The Pea Soup Lake approach becomes problematic in mid-July and later, once the ice melts. 
  • Expect bugs at Peggy's Pond.
  • No credit is given for ascending either the Southesat Ridge or Hyas Creek Glacier to the upper Daniel Glacier from Peggy’s Pond (both are scrambles).
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
  • Length: 16.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 4,800 ft
  • 7,986 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Daniel
  • Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176
  • USGS The Cradle
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Glacier Climb - Mount Daniel/Lynch Glacier

Climbing Trip
Preference given to Tacoma basic rock/glacier climbing students
Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
Sat, Jun 23, 2018 - Sun, Jun 24, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closed Jun 21
Tacoma Branch

Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Daniel/Lynch Glacier

Climbing Trip
3 day climb on a remote and seldom climbed peak.
Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
Sat, Jun 30, 2018 - Mon, Jul 2, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
1 participant on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jun 28
Everett Branch
Trip Reports
Resources

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

Tags: