Mount Hood/Devil's Kitchen Headwall

A moderate ice climb near the standard South Side route of Mount Hood.

getting there

Take I-5 to approximately 15 mi north of the Oregon state line to I-205 bypass around Portland to US 26. Travel east on US 26 for about 50 mi. Just past Government Camp turn left at Timberline Lodge turnoff. Drive 8 mi and park in lodge parking lot.

Ascent Route

Follow Palmer Glacier, along east edge (right side) to avoid interfering with ski trails (as directed by sign at climbers’ trailhead), to Triangular Moraine above cat track (5° bearing from Silcox hut). Climb above Triangular Moraine (8,500 ft) on most gentle ground to east side of Crater Rock (slope opposite Steel Cliff). Follow round Crater Rock, above sulfur-fuming Devil’s Kitchen (10,400 ft), to its north side to find wind carved snow formation called the Hogsback.  Before reaching the Hogsback traverse up and climber's right into an obvious funnel leading to steep snow then snow and ice with short steep steps.  Use pickets and ice screws to protect a few pitches until reaching the summit ridge.  Tag the summit.

Descent Route

Descend the "Old Chute" route.

Trip Profile

Seattle to Trailhead 4-5
Trailhead to Camp 2 3,000
Camp to Summit 5-8 2,235
Summit to Camp 2
Camp to Trailhead 1


Standard glacier travel gear, pickets, ice screws, 2nd tool.


  • Most parties do this route as a one-day climb from Timberline Lodge. If done as a two-day climb, it is possible to camp in snow approx 500 feet above the top of the Palmer Chair lift at the 9,000 ft level.
  • As a one-day climb, the lodge or a car camp is recommended. To car camp, either sleep in cars in parking lot or camp at Forest Service campground (both noisy). An early start 12 am or 1 am will avoid: soft snow, rock/icefall approaching the summit, and crowds on the Hogsback.


  • Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Length: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,235 ft
  • 11,235 ft
  • USGS Mt Hood South
  • Green Trails Mount Hood Climbing No. 462S
  • Red Marker
    45.330934, -121.711199
    45.3309336146 -121.711199284
  • Red Marker
    45.373542, -121.695600
    45.3735415903 -121.695599556

Upcoming Activities

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood/Devil's Kitchen Headwall

Climbing Trip
Reschedule of climb from 2/11
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Mar 24, 2018 - Sun, Mar 25, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist
Registration closed Feb 28
Seattle Branch
Trip Reports

There are no resources for this route/place. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.