Johannesburg Mountain/Southeast Arête

Johannesburg Mountain via the Southeast Arête is a Grade II, class 3 or 4 climb.

APPROACH

Hike approximately 3 mi up abandoned Middle Fork Cascade River Road (from where it branches from Cascade Pass Road at approximately 1,600 ft) and Middle Fork Cascade River Trail to approximately 3,100 ft (just past stream) see map. Ascend through timber and a burnt/brushy area around 4,000' to campsite at approximately 6,200 ft, see map

ASCENT ROUTE

Quoting from Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 2: "From camp, gain the ridge/arête. It is easiest to keep on the west side of the crest (class 3).

At 7,000 ft, the original party climbed two pitches to east of the crest along an out sloping ledge, to reach a notch north of a large gendarme (keep right of the latter). Cross to the west through the notch and scramble to the summit ridge (join upper part of the East Route)." Here's a picture of the route in profile taken from Hidden Lake Peak.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb
  • 8,200 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
    Stephen Mather Wilderness
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
Map
  • USGS Cascade Pass
Activities

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