Ingalls Peak/Southwest Face

Ingalls Peak via the Southwest Face is a 4th class climb.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS

Drive on I-90 to about 1 mi beyond Cle Elum, then go northeast on SR 970 about 5 mi to 0.5 mi past the Teanaway River Bridge. Turn left on the Teanaway River Road and continue 23 mi to the road end parking area at 4,243 ft, about 1 mi beyond the DeRoux Campground (Forest Road 9737). Car camping is available at the DeRoux Campground and other campgrounds on the Teanaway River Road.

APPROACH

From the parking area, take the abandoned mine road/trail .25 mi to fork in trail. Take the right trail (east). Stay left at the fork at 5,600 ft (toward Ingalls Pass) and reach Ingalls Pass (6,500 ft) in 3 mi. From pass continue on high trail to Ingalls Lake (4 mi from cars). Ascend to the notch between the main (north) and south peaks.

From the notch at the base of the south ridge descend west about 100 ft to the base of a friction slab where the climb begins.

ASCENT ROUTE

Ascend the friction slab to a belay spot where there are old pitons. From the belay move left and then up a class 3 gully for one fairly long pitch to a tree.

Scramble right, then climb a gully to the belay cove under the dark horns on the south ridge.

Another short pitch (now on the South Ridge route) goes up and right to a notch in the left skyline. From there scramble to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Scramble northwest down a ridge to a minor saddle (somewhat exposed with some loose gravel). Work down and traverse to a tree at the top of a class 3 gully (used on the ascent). Rappel down the gully and then down a friction slab to the base of the Southwest Face route. Scramble back up to the notch and from there return to the trailhead.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENTTIME (HOURS)ELEVATION GAIN (FEET)
Seattle to Trailhead 2.5
Trailhead to Climb 3-4 3,000
Climb to Summit 2-4 400
Summit to Trailhead 4-5

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment.

NOTES

The climb is generally on good rock with moderate exposure. The climb is easier than the South Ridge route with only a couple of low fifth class moves. The times required for the climb are similar to the times required for the South Ridge route.

Elevation gain from the cars to the summit is 3,419 ft. 

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1
  • Elevation Gain: 3,419 ft
  • 7,662 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mt Stuart No. 209
  • USGS Mt Stuart
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Basic Alpine Climb - Ingalls Peak/Southwest Face

Climbing Trip
Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1
Fri, Jul 13, 2018 - Sat, Jul 14, 2018
Prerequisites
2 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 11
Tacoma Branch
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