Prusik Peak/West Ridge


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Prusik Peak/West Ridge

Prusik Peak/W Ridge (Snow Creek Approach)

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Thu, Aug 7, 2014 — Sun, Aug 10, 2014
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Moderate
  • Elevation Gain: 4,400 ft

The tentative plan is to meet at the Bothell Park & Ride (off of SR-522 just west of the I-405 interchange) at 7am for carpooling.

The camping permit is for the Snow Lake Zone for Thursday, August 7th through Sunday, August 10th. The cost per person for the four-day permit is $20.75.

The plan is to park at the Snow Creek Trailhead on Thursday and hike to Upper Snow Lake and Camp. On Friday we will climb Prusik Peak. On Saturday we will likely scramble McClellan Peak or some other scramble destination in the Enchantments and then hike out on Sunday.

The climb date has been chosen to be during the historically driest time of year. Even so, the weather might be bad. If it looks like we might have less than ideal weather, we may move the climbing day to Friday if the forecast calls for it to be the better weather day. If the weather is looking marginal for both days, we may leave the climbing gear behind and change the destination to scramble routes. If the weather forecast is looking especially poor the trip will be canceled.

Reference & Data • • • • 8,000’, Enchantments Grade II , 5.7 • Rock Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Wenatchee National Forest • Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977 • Equipment: Rack to 3 1/2", ice axe, crampons in early season. • USGS Maps: Cashmere Mt, Enchantment Lakes • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition pp 260-262. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp. 91-92. Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 201-204.

Climbing Route • • • • • Ascend to Prusik Pass and up the West Ridge until it steepens. Two pitches of class 4 and low class 5 lead to the crest of the West Ridge. The third pitch begins with a short unprotected 5.7 friction slab followed by easier climbing. Traverse on the south side of a prominent horn to a belay on the ridge. Traverse left, class 4, via ledges on the north side until under the summit. From the highest easy ledge lie back up a steep corner, 5.6, for about 10’ or jam and mantle onto ledge that leads out and right. Climb a right facing thin flake to another ledge. A short narrow chimney leads to the summit.

Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend off the north face with 3 to 4 single rope rappels or various combinations of double and single rope rappels. When able traverse left, west, to Prusik Pass at the base of the West Ridge.  


Prusik Peak/West Ridge

  • Green Trails Mt Stuart No. 209

    USGS Enchantment Lakes

    USGS Cashmere

    Green Trails Alpine Lakes East (Stuart Range) No. 208SX
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Each pair of climbers should have a standard rack plus 60M rope. The camping area can sometimes be buggy. 

Trip Reports