Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver

early season big mountain climb

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, May 26, 2018 — Mon, May 28, 2018
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,790 ft

Meeting time and place will be coordinated by email; Please be available by email during the week leading up to the climb to participate in gear coordination, the go-no go decision, and selection of potential backup alternatives.


Contact leader for permission to register on or after 5/16/2018. See list below for gear requirements. This is a big mountain early season climb. We may complete this climb in 2 days or 3 days, depending on weather and other conditions. Sorry no Basic Climbing students.  Everyone must be prepared for winter temperatures and winter conditions. Therefore, the pace will be moderate and breaks short (so we don't get too cold waiting).  All participants must be confident they have the fitness necessary to complete this climb in 2 days. 


  • Level 1 Avalanche training
  • Winter camping experience
  • Experience constructing emergency snow shelters
  • Previous climbing experience at 13,000' or higher
  • Placing pickets for protection and crevasse rescue
  • Completion of Intermediate Glacier Mountaineering Course/Winter Mountaineering FT or equivalent experience

Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver

  • USGS Mt Rainier East

    USGS Mt Rainier West

    Green Trails Mt Rainier West No. 269

    Green Trails Mt Rainier East No. 270

    Green Trails Mount Rainier Wonderland No. 269SX
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountaineering boots suitable for an early season climb of Mt Rainier (no lightweight fabric mountaineering boots, no exceptions)
  • A suitable shelter (no lightweight 3-season tents such as Big Agness fly creek or BA Copper Spur with lots of mesh that allows spindrift snow to blow under the fly and into living space of tent)
  • Crampons compatible with the boots you will be wearing on this climb
  •  ice axe 
  • climbing helmet
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad(s) rated for sleeping on snow
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • 3 double length runners
  • 2 single length runners
  • 6 regular carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Climbing harness
  • Glacier sunglasses
  • Rescue pulley
  • hero loop
  • winter weight puffy jacket/parka
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants or puffy pants
  • Warm gloves and mittens
  • 1 picket per person
  • stove for melting snow for water
  • water filter or other means to purify water for drinking
  • shovel
  • gaitors
  • snowshoes
Trip Reports