Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood/Sandy Glacier Headwall

long, strenuous, committing two-day ice climb

  • Intermediate Ice Climb, Very Strenuous
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 8.5 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,800 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 11,235 ft
  • Pace: Fast


This will only go if conditions are very good, otherwise we'll keep rescheduling until we find the weather window. It must not be your first ice climb after the field trips. Please make sure you read the beta first, and describe your ice climbing experience when requesting leader's permission. Note there's a higher than you might expect total elevation gain due to the need to drop down on the Reid glacier in order to cross the Yocum ridge. I expect to be crossing the Yocum ridge at 7800 to avoid the exposed crossing at 8600 in the dark, which means over 5000 feet of elevation gain to do on the second day.

We will do this as a two-day climb, with a camp by the Illumination Rock, very early start, a long second day,  and return to pack the camp on the way down the South side. Please note that at this time of the year, it will be cold and windy. Make sure that you have gear appropriate for the conditions. Also note that during the winter, climbs are often cancelled or rescheduled to a different date due to avy conditions, wind, and other factors, and even more so for this climb. Even if conditions are looking good, we'll reschedule if we don't have enough recent beta. We'll be making conservative decisions and we'll look into alternative locations if necessary. Please be flexible.




Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

Required Equipment

Required Equipment


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