Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood/Leuthold Couloir

one-day ice climb

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  • Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Challenging
  • Pace: Moderate

Will pick one day of the two, whichever had good weather, close to the trip date, after short-term forecast becomes available. Details to be discussed via email.

Must have graduated from Alpine Ice (or equivalent), be in good shape, and feel solid on ice. I could make an exception and offer a different arrangement (e.g., to only follow during pitched climbing, without earning ice credit) if you are not a graduate, but I personally know you (e.g., you took my clinics).

While this is usually a good choice of the first ice climb a few months later during the season, expect the conditions at this time of the year to be much more challenging than usual (icy and thin route, sketchy glacier crossing and a Bergschrund, scarce beta, poor weather, etc.). This is an annual attempt to get Leuthold before it gets buried under a thick layer of snow, and while there still may be an ice step to negotiate in the hourglass.

Date is tentative - during this time of the year, conditions often tend to be poor due to weather, avy risk, or the route not being in, and most climbs are cancelled or rescheduled. This early in the season, the route is likely going to not be in, or the winter storms will make it unsafe. Please be flexible.

If you have not climbed during the winter, please study weather and reports of similar trips to make sure that you understand what to expect, and that winter climbing is within the limits of your risk tolerance. Generally, you can expect it will be cold and windy, protection scarce, and avy risk will not be "low" (NWAC forecast does not apply to the summit of Mt Hood, and the entire route is a big terrain trap sitting under wind-loaded ridges).

Details to be discussed via email. Please feel free to reach out with questions.


Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Details to be discussed via email.

Trip Reports