Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

One day climb of the Leuthold Couloir Route (primary) or an alternate route based on the conditions. We will be following on to a field trip, so the climb will begin from the area of the top of the Palmer Chair.

  • Snow Scramble, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 6.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,235 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 11,253 ft

We will depart from the parking lot at Timberline Lodge at 0900 on 27 March. We will carpool as much as possible to get there and will discuss arrangements to minimize the number of cars the week prior.

***Placeholder pending COVID-19 situation.***

We will choose the route that makes the most sense for the group. Preference is Leuthold Couloir and will involve steep, and possibly hard, snow conditions. Alternate route will be the Pearly Gates. We will have the group on the mountain near the top of the Palmer Chair conducting winter mountaineering activities  on Saturday and Sunday, and will get an alpine start from there Monday morning. 

Apologies in advance but this trip will fill with people in the Kitsap Intermediate Snow Travel module.

If you are in Kitsap's Intermediate Glacier Travel module, you have permission to sign up for this trip. No need to ask separately.


Mount Hood: Illumination Saddle Routes

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe and one technical ice tool; second ice tool acceptable in addition
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (that fits your gear and assigned team gear)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool) (not required for this trip)
  • Rescue pulley (also not required)
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Hard Shell pants
  • Belay gloves (bring warm gloves that fill this requirement)
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellette
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports