Mount Hood/South Side


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Hood/Devil's Kitchen Headwall

one-day ice climb

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  • Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 8.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,235 ft
  • Pace: Moderate

Will pick one day of the two, whichever had good weather, close to the trip date, after short-term forecast becomes available. Details to be discussed via email.

Must have graduated from Alpine Ice (or equivalent), be in good shape, and feel solid on ice. This should not be your very first ice climb.

Date is tentative - during this time of the year, conditions often continue to be poor due to weather, avy risk, or the route not being in, and most climbs are cancelled or rescheduled. Please be flexible.

If you have not climbed during the winter or very early in the season, please study weather and reports of similar trips to make sure that you understand what to expect, and that winter/early season climbing is within the limits of your risk tolerance. Generally, you can expect it will still be cold and that it may be windy, protection scarce, and avy risk will not be "low" (NWAC forecast does not apply to the summit of Mt Hood, the route crosses avy slopes).

The plan is to do the left-most, steepest variation (variously described as V1, V1 left, left left, etc.), but we'll decide based on the conditions, as there is sometimes a rock step to negotiate that may require mixed or careful climbing early in the season (hopefully well-covered by good ice by mid-April, but we'll see).

Details to be discussed via email. Please feel free to reach out with questions.


Mount Hood/South Side

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Details to be discussed via email.

Trip Reports