Mount Buckner/North Face


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Mount Buckner/North Face

Mt Buckner/N Face

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  • Sat, Jul 19, 2014 — Sun, Jul 20, 2014
  • Everett Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 5,400 ft
5:30 AM at Ash Way P&R
9,114’, Cascade Pass Grade II Ice Reference & Data • • • •
  • Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park
  • Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500
  • Equipment: 4 ice screws & 3 pickets per team, crampons, ice axe, 2nd tool
  • USGS Maps: Cascade Pass, Goode Mtn., Mt. Logan.
  • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide II, 2nd Edition, pp 308-309.
  • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 130-134. Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 115-118 Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
  • Seattle to TH 3 hrs 3,700’ 133
  • TH to Camp 3-5 hrs +3,900’
  • Camp to Climb 3-4 hrs +200’ (net)
  • On climb 3 hrs +1,300’
  • Summit to TH 5-6 hrs - 6,000’ +700’
Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of State Route 20. Turn left and continue 47 miles to Marblemount for climb registration and trip permits at Park R.S. From Marblemount take the Cascade River Road (Forest Service 15) for 22.9 miles to the Cascade Pass Parking Area. Hike trail to Cascade Pass and then up Sahale Arm path to moraine flats, 7,600’. If not doing a carry-over, camp near the toe of Sahale Glacier in sight of Sahale Peak. An alternate approach via Boston Basin trail climbs to the Boston-Sahale Col via Quien Sabe Glacier. Ascend toward Sahale Peak up broad S facing glacier by bearing right on gentlest gradient to right side of upper slope. Work to the head of a shallow, steep, cruddy gully on right side of Sahale pyramid and climb over the summit and down to the Boston Sahale-Col. Follow ridge of loose rock toward Boston Peak over several rock humps until an easy ledge system leads to Boston Glacier. For a carry-over, camp on flats beneath Boston. After descending initial steep snow in direction of Buckner, a high line across glacier leads directly to base of face. Climbing Route • • • • • Work left of any bergschrund, back right to center of lower face and straight up until upper rock cliffs force several pitches leftward in a rising traverse. Within 200’ of summit go left around a craggy-looking outcrop at end of upper cliffs then back rightward to gain the summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend SW face (gullies, scree, snow) on fall line to about 7,200’. Taverse down and right to cross cirque of Horshoe Basin on broad ledge system (the middle one) at 6,200-6,400’ (passing right near entrance to Davenport Mine) to a snow finger at same elevation. Ascend snow finger 100’ to gain rounded ridge above ridge toe. Scramble 40’ up steep rock steps then ascend 300’ on paths through heather and rock on ridge crest keeping Davenport Glacier in sight most of the time. When ridge steepens, traverse up and left on slabs and snow above glacier debris to moraine flats beneath Sahale. Comments • • • • • • • • • This route can be done with a camp on the Sahale Moraine or as a carry-over with a camp on Boston Glacier. With light packs, a carry-over will make for a much shorter second day. If camping on Boston Glacier, the Quien Sabe Glacier route to the Boston-Sahale col is more direct. Permits for the Sahale Moraine camp go very fast on summer weekends. The ranger will inspect the camp and give citations to parties camped there without appropriate permit ($140 in 1997).

Mount Buckner/North Face

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

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