Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse

Please do not inquire until May. Plan to climb the Inspiration Traverse peaks -- Austera and Primus, Klawatti, and Dorado Needle from El Dorado trailhead. Won't include El Dorado.

  • Fri, Jul 3, 2020 — Mon, Jul 6, 2020
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,000 ft

To be determined. Logistics will be shared prior to the trip.

Dependent on permit and weather.  Permit application will be submitted in March/April.  And if weather is bad, this might be changed to another place (B.C., Oregon).  Permit request will have alternatives in the North Cascades as well. Will try to camp at Klawatti Col, but will request alternate campsites when applying for permit. Participants must be prepared for long days.


Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse

  • USGS Eldorado Peak

    USGS Forbidden Peak

    USGS Cascade Pass

    USGS Sonny Boy Lakes

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports