Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse

Best of 5 or 6 days to attempt climbing the Ice Cap Slam peaks (Primus, Klawatti, Austera & Dorado Needle. Will probably skip Eldorado.)

  • Wed, Jun 19, 2019 — Wed, Jun 26, 2019
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 12,000 ft



Please be available for ALL DATES noted.  No inquires till March 15th.

Dependent on weather and acquisition of camping permit.

Itinerary will be similar to what is suggested in the Summit Routes - WA 100 Highest Peaks book.  Do your research.  This is a team climb where everyone will be expected to contribute.  

Moderate pace, but have the ability to go for long, consecutive days.  Need excellent scramble skills and be comfortable with exposure and steep snow. Dorado Needle is an Intermediate Rock Climb.

We will have trip planning meeting a month before.



Inspiration-McAllister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse

  • USGS Eldorado Peak

    USGS Forbidden Peak

    USGS Cascade Pass

    USGS Sonny Boy Lakes

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports