Cutthroat Peak/Southeast Buttress


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Cutthroat Peak/Southeast Buttress

Cutthroat Peak/SE Buttress

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, Aug 23, 2014
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Moderate
  • Elevation Gain: 3,050 ft


8,050’, Washington Pass Grade III , 5.6 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park • Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500 • Equipment: Light rack of mostly larger pro (1-2inches). • USGS Maps: Washington Pass • Other Map: North Cascades National Park Complex • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide III, 2nd Edition, pp. 357-359 (S Buttress). • Other Ref: Selected Climbs in the Northwest Vol. II, pp 179-182 Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 5,000’ 162 • TH to Camp 2 hrs +1,500’ • Camp to Summit 5-6 hrs +1,550’ • Summit to Cars 4 hrs -3,050’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of State Route 20. Turn left and drive through Marblemount (47 miles) and on to Rainy Pass. Continue east about three more miles and park along highway near Whistler Mountain sign. Descend from highway to crossing of State Creek. Ascend open slopes on east side of SE draining stream to basin immediately south of Cutthroat Peak. Climbing Route • • • • • Ascend to basin headwall and climb twin gullies to notch at base of Southeast Buttress. Start in right gully and traverse into left gully before notch. Above notch, easy scrambling leads to short, steep face. Stay generally near crest of buttress, then follow large ledge to the left. This leads to a gully that must be ascended to “Tarzan Jump” at its top. Scramble sandy gully above to notch between the false summit humps, then climb mixed 3rd, 4th and 5th Class rock to summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Rappel and downclimb route or West Ridge. Comments • • • • • • • • • Very short approach from North Cascades Highway. Not an especially difficult route, but the overall length mandates efficient climbing to avoid a headlamp return or bivy, especially later in season. Some parties prefer to bivy in basin below peak night before climb.


Cutthroat Peak/Southeast Buttress

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

The Ten Essentials

Trip Reports