Colchuck Peak/North Buttress Couloir


Intermediate Alpine Climb - Colchuck Peak/North Buttress Couloir

Ice climb

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  • Sun, May 22, 2016
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Challenging

Stuart Lake Trailhead, 4:30am

This will be a one-day, strenuous climb at a hopefully efficient pace.

Leader permission required.  I am not a big ice climber, so I prefer at least one and up to three people with a fair amount of ice experience.  Second preference goes to those with at least on ice climb already.  Bottom preference to those with only the field trips.  Let me know your background and conditioning when you request permission.

I have not climbed this route before, but climbed the descent route last year.  We'll get beta from Jerome Velosky's (hopefully successful) trip the weekend before.  If conditions are not good, we might defer to May 28 or 29 if that looks like it will be better.


Colchuck Peak/North Buttress Couloir

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
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