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Mount Logan/Banded Glacier

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Logan/Banded Glacier

A very strenuous climb of a remote peak in the North Cascades including glacier travel and very exposed class 4 scramble to reach the summit.

Contacts

Emma Agosta
Emma Agosta
Primary Leader
  • Fri, Jul 12, 2019 — Sun, Jul 14, 2019
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 5, Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 30.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 12,500 ft

This is a very strenuous carry-over glacier climb including some class 4 rock scrambling at the summit.  Participants must be in excellent physical shape and capable of carrying overnight gear for the entirety of the climb over difficult scrambling terrain and glaciers.  To be considered for this climb, e-mail leader with detailed climbing resume and recent history of conditioner hikes and scrambles. Basic grads are welcome to request permission as well as strong and skilled basic students.

TBA in pre-trip planning email.

Route/Place

Mount Logan/Banded Glacier


  • Green Trails North Cascades Ross Lake No. 16SX
    USGS Ross Dam
    USGS Forbidden Peak
    USGS Mt Logan
    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
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Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports