Basic Rock Climb - Tamanos-Banshee Traverse


Basic Rock Climb - Tamanos-Banshee Traverse

A beautiful and quite unique 3 day alpine traverse (mostly scrambling with several pitches of climbing). This traverse begins and ends at the Owyhigh Lakes Trailhead, yet manages to visit Tamanos on our first day, Main Cowlitz, Central Cowlitz, Banshee on our second day, and Double Peak on our 3rd day.

  • Fri, Aug 18, 2023 — Mon, Aug 21, 2023
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 5, Technical 4
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 20.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,000 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 7,605 ft

Arranged via email.

[Only open to folks I’ve been out with previously due to potential technical climbing with an overnight pack.  Do not request permission unless this is the case for you.]

Only for folks with outstanding conditioning as most of the time we’ll be carrying overnight packs cross country.  For people interested in attending this trip you should review my trip report for last year’s one day scramble to Double Peak on 9/3/2022 (the route used for this trip’s 3rd day exit).  The crux on the 3rd day will be the negotiation of a potentially technical section at the fault/ridge intersection at 46.84365° N, 121.60786° W.

The first day will see us ascending Tamanos via its northern aspect before ascending the stagnant Sarvant Glacier to reach our campsite just SE of Banshee.  Day two will see us using day packs to climb Main Cowlitz plus scramble Central Cowlitz and Banshee.  The third day we will negotiate the fault/ridge intersection obstacle before traversing to Double Peak and our route home.

More details to follow, but our itinerary is summarized in this map:



Tamanos Mountain, Governors Ridge, Barrier Peak & Buell Peak

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports