Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)


Basic Glacier Climb - Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Mentored Lead for Matt Kurjanowicz. All questions and permission requests go to Matt. Check back for more details on June 17. Please don't ask for permission until the climb opens.

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Fri, Jun 28, 2019 — Sun, Jun 30, 2019
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 13.4 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft

Will send via email the week of the trip.

To request leader's permission:

Please email Matt and Peter with the following information:

  1. Confirm that you, indeed, have only spent one night in a row camping before. Tell us what SIG you are in and whether you need  a glacier climb to graduate.
  2. Read the leader notes and send the answer to the question at the end.

Priority is given to those who meet the combination of: a) have never spent 2 nights in a row in a tent before, b) those in the David Johnson SIG, and c) for those that need a glacier climb to graduate.

If I find another rope lead I will extend the total party size to 9.

I will accumulate responses on the wait list until 6:00 PM, Tuesday, June 18th and then randomly assign spots based on the priority described above (you don't have to be the fastest clicker in the west to get on this climb).

About the climb


All participants should be familiar with the route. Look for information on the Mountaineers site, SummitPost, PeakBagger, WTA, and guide books. Our goal is to camp as high as possible for night 1, climb both peaks on day 2, and then walk out on day 3.

Pace / Timeline

We will keep a moderate pace, but will stop only briefly every 60 - 90 minutes or so. Expect to be moving all day. Day 1 should take 3 - 5 hours, Day 2 may take as long as 16 hours, and Day 3 should only take 3 - 4 hours.

The question for permission:
If you had to ford a river, what shoes would you wear? (Not a trick question ... just, what do you think you'd wear?)



Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports