Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver

BASIC GRADUATES ONLY, NO STUDENTS. Do not request permission until registration opens in May. Requests before that time will be ignored. Mentored lead for Eri Ottersburg

  • Thu, Jun 5, 2025 — Fri, Jun 6, 2025
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 5, Technical 5
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,790 ft

If conditions are unfavorable for a climb so early in the season, this climb will be rescheduled to June 19-20. If you are selected for this climb, you will be automatically registered for the alternate dates. If you cannot make the alternate dates, the next person on the waitlist will be added to the alternate dates. 

Applicant selection priority will be to those who have been on climbs, hikes, or conditioners with the leader, and rope leads/aspiring leaders. If you haven’t climbed with us yet, there are several opportunities, just search our names in activities. Camp Muir on May 16 is a good option and others will be posted. 
https://www.mountaineers.org/members/eri-ottersburg/member-activities#:~:text=Alpine%20Scramble%20%2D%20Camp%20Muir 

The climb is for experienced mountaineers seeking a physical and mental challenge while prioritizing sound decision-making. Participants must research the route, contribute to group decisions, and maintain mutual respect. This is not a guided trip—each climber is responsible for their own preparation and safety. The summit is a goal but not guaranteed. Our primary focus is gaining experience, fostering a positive team dynamic, and enjoying the mountain. Decisions will be made by consensus, always deferring to the most conservative risk perspective.

Climbers will need to secure their own personal climbing permits as well as repay the leader for their portion of the group permit.  

Our first day will start early so that we have time at camp to rest before heading to the summit. Plan to stay near the trailhead the night before the climb. Participants must be in excellent physical condition with recent trips showing long days with significant elevation gain. If a participant struggles to reach camp (maintain pace or schedule set by the leaders), they will not be part of the summit attempt the following day. 

In order to sort out who is a compatible team member: please request permission by filling out the following questionnaire:

Request for Mount Rainier - DC Route June 5-6 

The following requests will be ignored: 

  • Requests without the information asked above. 
  • Please don't send me a long essay through the “Request Leader's Permission” link, these will be ignored. Thank you!

Will send to participants; expect to stay at Cougar Rock the day before we start.

Route/Place

Mount Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver



  • USGS Mt Rainier East

    USGS Mt Rainier West

    Green Trails Mt Rainier West No. 269

    Green Trails Mt Rainier East No. 270

    Green Trails Mount Rainier Wonderland No. 269SX
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +10 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad rated for winter/spring temps
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • The rest of the 10 esssentials
Trip Reports