Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier

Luahna via the beautiful and rugged Napeequa River Valley. We'll go have a look at Chalangin while we're back there.

  • Sat, Jun 27, 2026 — Mon, Jun 29, 2026
  • Seattle Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • All Who Qualify, Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 16.0
  • Elevation Gain: 10,300 ft
  • Pace: 1,000'/hr minimum
  • 3 (4 capacity)
  • FULL (2 capacity)
  • Wed, Apr 15, 2026 at 7:00 AM
  • Thu, Jun 25, 2026 at 5:00 PM
  • Cancellation & Refund Policy
  • iCal Google

This is a very challenging approach to a beautiful peak deep in the Glacier Peak Wilderness.  There will be over 10k feet of elevation gain by the time we are back at the cars on Monday morning.  Interested participants should be in excellent physical condition, have their systems dialed for multiple days on the move, and be comfortable with river crossings (we will have 4).  This is not one of the typical "check the box" basic glacier climbs.  When you reach out for permission, please describe your current physical condition, conditioning program, and previous trips of similar level of involvement so that climb leader can determine if this trip will be a good fit.

This will be a three day trip using an itinerary similar to that described in the club's trip description...so two nights at Butterfly Butte.  The one difference is that after climbing Luahna we will go climb neighboring Chalangin Peak (a recently added top 100 summit) while we are in the neighborhood before heading back down to camp for night two.

The Napeequa River Valley is stunning....should be gorgeous.

We'll meet at the Little Giant Pass trailhead on Saturday morning.  We'll want to carpool since there isn't room for a lot of cars there.  Time to be finalized prior to the trip....but early since the approach day up and over Little Giant Pass, down to the Napeequa River, and back up to Butterfly Butte will be a long and tough day.

Route/Place

Luahna Peak/Pilz Glacier



  • USGS Clark Mountain

    USGS Trinity

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness

    Green Trails Holden No. 113

    Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
  • See full route/place details.
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Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports