Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


Basic Glacier Climb - Kololo Peaks/White Chuck Glacier

This is a 3-day climb of Kololo (8,220') and some combination of the surrounding peaklets: Kopeetah Divide (7,723'), Gorgeous Morning (7,941'), Glacier Gap Peak (7,739') and The Hive (7,540')

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, Jun 26, 2021 — Mon, Jun 28, 2021
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft

by email

 Goal is to get out for a 3 day weekend with other like-minded climbers. All participants must be confident they have the fitness necessary for this trip.

This trip has a strenuous approach. A good portion of it will be on snow. Estimate is 10 hours. Please do some research before deciding if this trip is right for you. Approach  is via the Sloan Creek CG/North Fork Sauk trailhead, elevation 2100'. Nobody on this trip has done any of these peaks before. Everyone is expected to participate in  pre-trip planning and navigation/route finding during the trip. Expect to be camping on snow and possibly melting snow for water. 

Please be available for gear coordination by email on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday leading up to this climb.


Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports