Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Low-key, 4-day backpack and glacier climb to tag Glacier and Disappointment Peaks - maybe Portal Peak scramble... Request permission after May 1.

  • Wed, Aug 12, 2020 — Sun, Aug 16, 2020
  • Olympia Basic Alpine Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 45.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 12,400 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 10,540 ft
  • Pace: 1000ft/hr

Sloan Creek campground early evening Aug. 12.

 

This is a placeholder for now. Priority to Kitsap basic climb students with a love of backpacking, glaciers and heavy packs. Total mileage is 40-45 and elevation gain/loss 11,200 - 12,400ft. If you're a student, chances are your pack will be 40+lb for the first couple days.

When you request permission, we'll be chatting about stamina, experience, spring training plans, etc...

Every time I have done this, someone has turned around for underestimating the trip, and an able team member threw their summit to take them down. That won't happen here unless someone is injured or ill.

    • Wed. Aug. 12 – Day 0 – Sloan Creek Campground. Meet 6pm, easy hike to campsite at 4.5mi.
    • Thurs. Aug. 13 - Day 1 – 5:30am start to avoid bugs. Reach White Pass around noon (5.5mi/4000ft). Optional afternoon hike with light packs to Portal Peak (around 5mi/1000ft extra).
    • Fri. Aug. 14 - Day 2 – 7am start to Glacier Gap to avoid bugs. Reach GG around 1pm. (7mi/2000ft) Hike to assess route.
    • Sat. Aug. 15 - Day 3 – 4am start. Summit Glacier by 10 and Disappointment by 11. Break camp and down 1200ft to alpine tarn at 6400. (8mi/3850ft RT
    • Sun. Aug. 16 - Day 4 – 8am start to White Pass. Reach WP by 11:30. Down to Mackinaw Shelter by 2pm. Out around 4. Celebratory meal and long drive home.

 

Route/Place

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver



  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
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Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Boots that can accept crampons (may be solid hiking boots IF tested prior)
  • Approach shoes to keep feet from getting blisters early in the trip (mandatory)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • Group gear including tents, stoves, water purification systems, pickets, slings & things.
  • A backpack (60-80 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped (locking) carabiner
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley system
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Gas money for drivers
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Lots of bug spray/lotion
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