Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


Basic Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Slow, low-key, 5-day backpack and glacier climb to tag Glacier and Disappointment Peaks - maybe Portal Peak scramble... Please request permission after May 1.

  • Thu, Aug 13, 2020 — Mon, Aug 17, 2020
  • Olympia Basic Alpine Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 45.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 12,400 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 10,540 ft
  • Pace: 1000ft/hr

Sloan Creek campground evening Aug. 12 or ridiculous o'clock a.m. Aug. 13 (carpools TBD)


This is a placeholder for now. Priority to Kitsap/Olympia basic climb students with a love of backpacking, glaciers and heavy packs. Total mileage is 40-45 and elevation gain/loss 11,200 - 12,400ft. If you're a student, chances are your pack will be 40+lb for the first couple days.

Please don't expect any responses to any questions between Dec. 11 and Jan. 7. Off-grid) When you request permission, we'll be chatting about stamina, experience, spring training plans, etc... Every time I have done this, someone has turned around for underestimating the trip, and an able team member threw their summit to take them down. That won't happen here unless someone is injured.

    • Wed. Aug. 12 – Day 0 – Sloan Creek Campground
    • Thurs. Aug. 13 - Day 1 – early start to avoid bugs. Reach White Pass around 1pm (10mi/4000ft). Possible late afternoon hike with light packs to Portal Peak (around 5mi/1000ft extra).
    • Fri. Aug. 14 - Day 2 – 8am start to Glacier Gap. Reach GG around 2pm. (7mi/2000ft) Evening hike to assess route.
    • Sat. Aug. 15 - Day 3 – 4am start. Summit Glacier by 10 and Disappointment by 11. 2nd night at GG. (6mi/3850ft RT)


    • Sun. Aug. 16 - Day 4 – 8am start to White Pass. Reach White Pass around 2pm. Possible late afternoon with light packs to Portal Peak if we didn’t do it Day 1. (7mi/700ft, 5mi/1000ft extra for Portal)
    • Mon. Aug. 17 - Day 5 – out. Start time depends on bugs, weather forecast. (10mi/900ft)



Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Boots that can accept crampons (may be solid hiking boots IF tested prior)
  • Approach shoes to keep feet from getting blisters (mandatory)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • Group gear including tents, stoves, water purification systems, pickets, slings & things.
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped (locking) carabiner
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley system
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Gas money for drivers
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports