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Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

A visit to our most remote Cascade volcano.

Contacts

Steve McCarthy
Steve McCarthy
Primary Leader
Saynier Tormire
Saynier Tormire
Mentored Leader
  • Fri, May 29, 2026 — Sun, May 31, 2026
  • Seattle Climbing Committee
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults, All Who Qualify
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 10,525 ft
  • Pace: 1.75 mph/1000 fph up, 2.5 mph down
  • FULL (6 capacity)
  • FULL (3 capacity)
  • Sun, Mar 22, 2026 at 8:01 PM
  • Wed, May 27, 2026 at 5:00 PM
  • Cancellation & Refund Policy
  • iCal Google

Tormire SIG only.  Tormire SIG students, you have leader's permission, no need to ask.  Others signing up without leader's permission will be removed from consideration.  If there are open spots, we'll open it up to other students.

Please read the mentored leader’s Goals, Expectations and Style carefully before registering.

This is a   l o n g  trip, so the current thinking is to break up the approach a bit, hiking in to the Mackinaw Shelter area day 1.  Day 2 up to high camp.  Early wakeup day 3 for summit attempt, then back to camp, and the long hike out. 

If the team is performing well we will push for a different timeline and target the following instead:

- day 1: North Fork Sauk TH to 6800’ camp (Low camp not White Pass). 12 mi 6600’ of gain 1800’ of drop
- day 2: Low camp to Summit to Low camp. Up: 4.5 mi 4100’ of gain 300’ drop. Down: 4.5 mi 300’ of gain 4100’ drop. RT: 9 mi 4400’ gain/drop
- day 3: Low camp to North Fork Sauk TH. 12 mi 1800’ gain 6600’ drop.

TBD over email.

Route/Place

Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


  • USGS Glacier Peak West
    USGS Glacier Peak East
    USGS Sloan Peak
    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX
    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112
    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports