Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


Basic Glacier Climb - Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

Ski mountaineering trip back to Glacier Peak.

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  • Fri, Jun 3, 2022 — Sun, Jun 5, 2022
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft

Day 1 we can meet up early in town or at the N. Fork Sauk River TH and get going.  

Time and exact locations for meeting up tbd.

Day 1 we'll start early and hike until we hit continuous snow and stash approach shoes in the woods when we start skinning.  We'll aim to camp in Glacier Basin or Glacier Camp.  Day 1 will be long.  Please address your conditioning when you reach out.  Also, this is not the trip for a hybrid inbounds/touring set up since we will be carrying weight for 3 days and having a long hike in/out.  Please address your skiing kit when you reach out so we can make sure we are on the same page.

Day 2 will be summit day and we'll decide how we want to maximize the skiing when we're back there.  I could easily be talked into climbing Disappointment Peak while we are right there.  After we have skied back to camp, I'd like to break camp and move it back to White Pass to set up a shorter day 3.

Day 3 we'll ski back to the approach shoes and slog out.

AIARE 1 and previous backcountry touring and glacier climbing experience required.


Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Ski touring/splitboard set up
  • Boot crampons
  • Ski crampons
  • Avy gear (beacon/shovel/probe)
  • An ice axe or whippet (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports