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Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier

The Basic glacier climb is prioritized for Kitsap branch members until June 1, 2025. Other branch members, please email your interest and I will place you on the offline waitlist starting on June 1, 2025. Please do not use the Mountaineers notification system associated with the climb. Simply send me an email. If seats are available, and there are no Kitsap branch members on the online waitlist, I will confirm your availability then manually add you to the climb.

Contacts

Ed Lucas
Ed Lucas
Primary Leader
Qualified Youth Leader
  • Fri, Jun 27, 2025 — Sun, Jun 29, 2025
  • Kitsap Branch Climbing Program
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Youth, Adults
  • Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 11.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,203 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 8,850 ft
  • Pace: 1.5 mph

Plan is a 3-day climb. May change to 2-day depending on the weather. Preferred basecamp at 7400 feet.

  • On the approach there is a 2.5 mile section where the elevation gain per mile is 1,516 feet. Fairly steep with a heavy pack.
  • Travel is through a couple boulder fields for 0.93 mile section.
  • The approach levels off a little after this. 1,247 feet per mile.
  • At 3.25 miles there is a 160 foot down climb to get on the glacier then on to basecamp at 7,378 feet.

Will be communicated 1-month prior to the climb.

Route/Place

Eldorado Peak/Inspiration Glacier


  • USGS Eldorado Peak
    USGS Forbidden Peak
    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
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Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports