Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks

Trip

Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side

Unicorn Peak/S Side

Info
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  • Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 1
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 5.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,600 ft

5:00 AM at MWPR

MUST SEEK LEADER'S PERMISSION TO REGISTER!

Climb up steep slopes into a basin narrowing into a steep snowfield. Continue up snow field to saddle at about 6,500'. Cross saddle to S side of ridge summit tower. Tower is 80 - 90' (to summit at 6917'); mostly class 3-4 with some 5th class moves, OR all 5th class depending on the route taken. Variation: From the ridge on the E side of the castle, follow the crest SE to the base of Unicorn's S peak. Continue around the lower peak on it's N side and follow the snow slope as in the normal approach. Road may not be open before late May - check with Rangers. If not open, park at Narada Falls, and allow time for the extra 6 mi. approach.

Route/Place

Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

The Ten Essentials, helmet, ice ax, crampons, climbing harness and rock gear.

Trip Reports