Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks

Trip

Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak

A classic alpine climb to Unicorn Peak (also a Smoot peak). This will be a one-day climb (will choose better weather day). Priority goes to Seattle Climbing community until May 26th, then open to all after that. Please read leader notes before requesting leader permission.

  • Sat, Jun 14, 2025 — Sun, Jun 15, 2025
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Alpine Climb, Basic Experience Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 4
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 5.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 2,600 ft
  • Pace: 1,000 ft/hr

While this climb will not count towards your basic rock graduation requirements, you will navigate in tricky terrains, travel on loose material and steep snow, and climb one short pitch of alpine rock on this trip. Unicorn is an excellent sampling of larger climbs to come but in a digestible dose.

When requesting leader permission, please share with me your level of recent conditioning and your experience traveling on steep snow and exposed rock scrambling terrain. You also need to be proficient in lead belay and how to follow on a multi-pitch climb, so share your experience/training in these skills with me as well.

Do not contact or request permission until registration opens. Rope leaders can request permission anytime.  Rope leads are required to have the Leading Trad and Leading Multipitch badges. Ideally you should have completed at least Self Rescue I as well. Current Intermediate students are welcome to request a roster spot, but successful awarding of the necessary skill badges by the listed climb date is expected.

7:30am at Narada Falls TH. We will consolidate cars there and caravan to Reflection Lake THYou will need to have an America the Beautiful pass or pay for a day pass to enter Rainier NP.  Also, a timed entry reservation is now required to enter the Paradise Corridor on the south side of the park from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm. (More information can be found here.)  If you enter through the gate before 7am, you won't need a reservation to enter FYI 

Carpool is highly recommended (but optional) for this trip and will be coordinated over email.

Route/Place

Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports