Mount Logan/Banded Glacier


Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Logan/Banded Glacier

A strenuous but incredibly beautiful climb in the North Cascades National Park

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Fri, Jul 19, 2019 — Sun, Jul 21, 2019
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 5, Basic Glacier Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 30.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 12,000 ft

By email.

This will be a 3 day climb. Party size will be 4 max.

Day 1: Easy Pass TH to 5200' lake. 
Day 2: camp to summit to camp via the Banded Glacier

Day: 3 5200' lake to Easy Pass TH

This climb is strenuous due to significant off-trail travel and will include travel through brush. As a carry-over climb, we will be carrying all our gear (including overnight gear) for the entire trip, up one side of Mt Logan and down the other side. Please do some research before deciding if this trip is right for you.

Participants must be certain they have the necessary fitness for this trip. All participants must meet the minimum Seattle Basic fitness standard of being able to carry 15% of body weight from the TH to base of Haystack on  Mt Si in less than 2 hours.

Contact leader (using the buttons on the right side of your screen). If  your Mountaineers profile does not show evidence of T5 snow and T5 rock scramble experience, please provide evidence of  this experience.


Mount Logan/Banded Glacier

  • Green Trails North Cascades Ross Lake No. 16SX

    USGS Ross Dam

    USGS Forbidden Peak

    USGS Mt Logan

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports