Mount Fernow/Southwest Slope


Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Fernow/Southwest Slope

And Cascade River Rd is closed Formidable is now Fernow! We'll tag Fernow on Sunday after doing a little peakbagging along the Carne High Route on the way in on Saturday.

  • Sat, Aug 14, 2021 — Sun, Aug 15, 2021
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Alpine Climb
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 22.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,900 ft

We will get an early start out of town Saturday morning to beat the heat.  Game plan is to meet at the Phelps Creek TH around 8:30 for the approach via the Carne High Route.  We'll try to tag two peaks on our way to our camp at Leroy Basin (thinking Chilly and Ice Box, both top 200'ers).  Sunday morning we'll get rolling early to tag Fernow and hopefully start the hike out before it is too hot out there.

It is going to be real hot this weekend - forecast says 107 in Leavy at the moment - so we are going to get early starts to avoid the worst of it and stay up high during the day on Saturday.  This will fundamentally be a scrambling trip with just a touch of steep snow in the Gloomy Glacier basin on our way over to Fernow.  Mainly we will just be doing a lot of hiking with full packs in the heat.

So this trip will demand excellent fitness.  If you are interested in it, please detail your climbs this season or other into on your fitness practice so that climb leader knows you are ready for what this itinerary will require.  


Mount Fernow/Southwest Slope

  • USGS Holden

    USGS Trinity

    Green Trails Holden No. 113

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness

    Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Microspikes/lightest crampons you have
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Helmet
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports