Mount Cruiser/Southwest Corner


Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Cruiser/Southwest Corner

Mt Cruiser/SW Corner

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  • Sat, Aug 23, 2014 — Sun, Aug 24, 2014
  • Kitsap Branch Climbing Program
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 20.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,300 ft

10:00 AM at Staircase RS.

This trip will be done as an overnight trip.  Camp will be made at Flapjack Lakes.  There will be an early morning start from camp with equipment for the climb only.  After the climb, camp will be packed up and the group will return to the trailhead.

The trip starts on the North Fork Skokomish Trail at Staircase Ranger Station (800').  3.7 mi to the Flapjack Lakes Trail intersection (1475').  4.1 mi to Flapjack Lakes camp (3900').

From Flapjack Lakes hike 1.5 mi. on trail to Gladys Divide. Just before the Divide, ascend SE up the steep snow or scree couloir to a saddle. Gain the ridge crest and scramble a gully close to Mt. Cruiser. Ascend up and right on class 3-4 rock for about 200' to a short chimney with a tunnel at the top. Ascend through the hole and then cross a large platform about 75' to a belay spot. From the belay spot, there is a bolt, up, right, around the comer, on the face. A short class 4-5 lead up the face ends at a belay spot on the ridge crest above fixed pins (used for rappelÑcaution!). Small chocks can be placed. A class 3 pitch up the crest (very exposed but bolted) gains the summit. Obtain the required permit and pay the overnight fee at the Staircase Ranger Station. The snow in the couloir is steep and often icy. In late season, it may be best to crawl the moat. The rock on the climb is sound; the exposure on the final two pitches is high. One could make a shorter (steeper) approach via the Hamma River Road and Mildred Lakes trail. Bivy sites are available at about 6540'. The Climber's Guide to the Olympics says, after reaching notch above Gladys Divide, to traverse E 50', then ascend ridge and scramble N towards Cruiser. Easier terrain is found by ascending up cracks and ledges directly N from notch. In 1998, reservations and a $2 per person fee were required. Reservations could only be made up to one month in advance.


Mount Cruiser/Southwest Corner

  • USGS Mt Skokomish

    USGS Mt Steel

    Green Trails Mt Steel No. 167

    Green Trails Olympic Mountains East No. 168S
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Alpine Rock equipment: harness, helmet, ice ax, crampons.
  • Overnight camping equipment
Trip Reports