Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)

Trip

Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/Squak Glacier

One day attempt of Baker via Squak Glacier. Backcountry Skis or Splitboards required. See Leader Notes

  • Sat, May 2, 2020 — Sun, May 3, 2020
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Intermediate Alpine
  • Adults
  • Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 13.4 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft

TBD

Permission requests accepted starting January 1; ski conditioners will take place between January and March.

We'll pick the better weather day. If both days suck, we may try again a different weekend

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING

This climb is open to ALL Basic Alpine Climbing Graduates or Intermediate Alpine Climbing Students or Graduates. Those that took the Glacier Ski Travel Course are NOT eligible for this climb (because I'm not a Backcountry Ski Leader so I don't have authorization to post trips for your group. Sorry...working on getting that sorted out!)

Please note the following before you request permission to join

  • participants  MUST have completed AIARE 1. Certificate MUST be on your Mountaineers profile page
  • participants MUST be competent backcountry skiers or splitboarders. You don't have to descend cleanly, but you must be comfortable on your equipment, uphill and down

When asking for permission to add, please provide the following.

  • What year you took AIARE 1
  • When was the last time you practice avalanche rescue
  • A brief resume of ski tours you've done.

Please note: I may ask that you ski at Hyak, Summit, or Muir with me as a ski conditioner prior to this trip. This is so you're comfortable skiing with me as much as I get comfortable skiing with you.

My ski touring resume

Mt St Helens via Worm Flows: 2017 and 2018, 5.5 hours up to summit, 1 hour down
Silverstar Peak via Silverstar Creek: 2018, 8 hours up to 7400', hit turn around time
Mt Hood via the South Side: 2018, 6.5 hrs up to summit, 1.5 hrs down
Mt Rainier to Camp Muir: multiple trips, 3.5 hrs to Muir, 1 hr down
Mt Baker via Squak Glacier: 8 hours to 9700', turn around due to AMS
Mount Olympus Middle Peak attempt via Hoh River Trail: made it to 7000' before turning around due to conditions
Unicorn Peak: 2017 and 2018. 6 hours up, 3 hours down
The Tooth - Great Scott Basin: multiple times

 

Route/Place

Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)


Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • Backcountry Ski or Splitboard Equipment
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
  • A sleeping pad
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
  • Cordellete
  • Picket or other relevant protection
  • Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports