Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver


Basic Alpine Climb - Kololo Peaks/White Chuck Glacier

Climb for Basic and Glacier Travel Graduates

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, May 25, 2019 — Mon, May 27, 2019
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Challenging
  • Mileage: 33.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,200 ft

by email

Goal is to get out for a 3 day weekend with other like-minded climbers. All participants must be confident they have the fitness necessary for this trip.

We will attempt  to climb of Kololo Peak, Point 7941' (Gorgeous Morning), and  Point 7723' (Kopeetah Divide).  We will not be climbing Glacier Peak. 

This climb is for Mountaineers Basic Climbing graduates, and Glacier Travel graduate or  those with equivalency. Sorry, no students.


This is a strenuous trip. Please do some research before deciding if this trip is right for you. Approach  is via the Sloan Creek CG/North Fork Sauk trailhead, elevation 2100'. Nobody on this trip has done any of these peaks before. Everyone is expected to participate in  pre-trip planning and navigation/route finding during the trip. Expect to be camping on snow and possibly melting snow for water. All participants must meet Seattle Basic climbing fitness standards = hike from TH to just below summit block of Mt Si in 2 hours or less carrying  15% of body weight.


Good weather is required. If weather is not suitable for Kololo, will try for eastside multiday scramble, weather permitting.


Day1: Hike in and camp at around 6,600' in the basin on the edge of the White Chuck Glacier

Day2: Climb

Day 3:Hike Out and Drive Home


Leader permission is required to register. Please contact leader on or after Monday  5/20 for permission to register. In your request, please tell me the USGS summit elevation of Kololo peak and what you've been doing this season for mountaineering-specific fitness.


Glacier Peak/Disappointment Peak Cleaver

  • USGS Glacier Peak West

    USGS Glacier Peak East

    USGS Sloan Peak

    Green Trails Mountain Loop Highway No. 111SX

    Green Trails Glacier Peak No. 112

    Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
  • See full route/place details.
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports