Glacier Island Traverse


Basic Alpine Climb - Glacier Island Traverse

(Read Notes 1st!) An infrequently visited peak on the western slopes of Mount Rainier with sweeping views of Success Cleaver and the Sunset Amphitheater. Time and conditions permitting, may visit Tokaloo Rock on exit.

COVID-19: Learn about our most up-to-date guidance for participants and leaders on our COVID-19 Response page. All participants and leaders must agree to the COVID-19 Code of Conduct before participating in this Mountaineers activity.
  • Sat, May 28, 2016 — Sun, May 29, 2016
  • Seattle Climbing
  • Climbing
  • Basic Alpine
  • Adults
  • Basic Alpine Climb
  • For Beginners (Getting Started Series)
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 4,850 ft

Various P&Rs to accommodate attendees, then 7:30 am at the Longmire Ranger Station to obtain our permits.

This is a remote and extremely strenuous alpine trip intended as a heartfelt thank you to the folks I've encountered on high end winter scrambles. These folks appreciate the importance of frequent and ongoing strenuous alpine trips to ensure a safe and enjoyable time on trips like this one. If I didn't see you this past winter (2015-2016) and would like to attend future trips like these, please consider joining us for training trips in late fall and winter of 2016-2017.

Time and conditions permitting, may visit Tokaloo Rock on exit with return by way of the Wonderland Trail to Round Pass.   One photo in particular that shows the upper portions of our climbing route can be seen here.  We will be doing an investigatory scramble to ~8000' on Success Cleaver just prior to this trip to evaluate conditions.  Photos showing portions of this trip can be seen here.


Glacier Island Traverse

Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
  • Crampons
  • An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
  • A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
  • Webbing and accessory cords
  • 6 straight gate carabiners
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • Large pear-shaped carabiner
  • Belay device
  • Climbing harness
  • Helmet
  • Chock pick (nut tool)
  • Rescue pulley
  • Fleece or puffy jacket
  • Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
  • Belay gloves
  • Warm gloves or mittens
Trip Reports