Tomyhoi Peak/Southeast Route

Trip

Alpine Scramble - Tomyhoi Peak/Southeast Route

Tomyhoi Peak is a moderate but technically challenging, exposed scramble. Please read the leader note section before requesting leader permission. Participants should be extremely confident, skilled scramblers. Having experience with long days in the mountains and having the right conditioning to be efficient are also important.

  • Strenuous 3, Technical 5
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 15.67
  • Elevation Gain: 6,500 ft
  • Pace: 1,000 ft/hr

8AM at Yellow Aster Butte Trailhead (3,700 ft). You will need a NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass to park at this trailhead.  

Optional Carpool: 5:30AM at Ashway Park and Ride

We will climb Tomyhoi Peak on Day 1 and hopefully get back to camp just in time for sunset. For the next day, we will have a relaxing morning before our hike out, and we have the option of tagging yellow aster butte depending on group desire.

Here is a trip report for your reference: Tomyhoi Peak, Yellow Aster Butte — Washington Trails Association (wta.org)

Please request leader permission to participate. This route requires navigation skills and good physical conditioning.  Tomyhoi Peak is a Smoot peak with exposure and loose material. You should be comfortable with exposed rock scrambles. 

  • Because of exposure and loose material, this is not a good scramble for current scramble/basic students unless you have experience in these conditions. You should have completed at least one S5, T5 scramble (preferably two), and basic rock/basic alpine climbs count too. Be sure to share with me S5 & T5 rock scrambles and/or basic rock climbs you have done in the past.
  • When requesting permission, let me know your level of recent conditioning, past backcountry camping experience. Please also include your experience traveling on exposed rock scrambling terrain.
Route/Place

Tomyhoi Peak/Southeast Route



  • USGS Mt Larrabee

    Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13SX

    Green Trails Mt Shuksan No. 14

    Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
  • See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Helmet
  • Downclimb kit (hasty/glacier harness, prusik loop, locking carabiner)
  • Mountaineering Boots or crampon-compatible approach shoes (Alternatively, trail runners for the hiking approach and mountaineering boots for the summit attempt)
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Treking Poles 
Trip Reports