Guye Peak/W Face
John Bell (Qualified Youth Leader)
Exit right onto a very large ramp with full grown trees. The ramp does a rising traverse all the way across the W face from N to S. It is quite visible from the road. Some may want a rope here, but most parties may be willing to scramble it. At the end of the ramp, belay up 40' or class 4/5.0 solid rock to another grassy ramp. This ramp rises to the left (N), and goes about halfway across the face, where it ends at a notch. Go through the notch, to your right, into the center of a wide gully. Here you will find the crux and final pitch. It starts up a steep crack/face and is low 5th class for approximately 30', then it becomes 4th class for about half a rope length, up rocks and through alpine trees. There's a good belay just before the notch at the top of this pitch. Unrope at the notch and scramble left (N) to the summit. There are three summits of nearly equal height, but the summit register is on the S summit. The route ends between the S and middle peaks. There is some rotten rock on this route. Getting from the S to the N summit takes some time and requires caution. Credit is given for reaching any one of the summits. Traversing around E side of N peak on descent is much easier than W side traverse recommended in previous Basic Climbs Guides. Also, return to Alpental parking lot is shorter than Commonwealth Basin route.
Rope leader needed! Contact leader for details.