Activity Information

Hikers

Vesper Peak/N Face

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07/14/13

TRIP
Seattle Climbing


John G. Rollins   (Qualified Youth Leader)

6:00 AM

seattle


6,214’, Mountain Loop Grade II-III , 5.8 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest • Ranger Station: Verlot Visitor Center / 360-691-7791 • Equipment: Small to medium stoppers and cams. Crampons/ice axe in early season. • USGS Maps: Silverton, Bedal • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide II, 2nd Edition, pp 48-50. • Other ref: 100 Hikes in the North Cascades, Hike #47. Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Vol. 2. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 1.5 hrs 2,200’ 74 • TH to Camp 3-4 hrs +2,500’ • Camp to Summit 4-5 hrs +1,615’ • Summit to Cars 3 hrs -4,115’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 194, US 2. Exit to US 2 eastbound and follow to exit for State 204 N to State 9 N . Turn right on State 92 to Granite Falls. Drive Mountain Loop Highway east from Granite Falls 28 miles (2 miles before Barlow Pass). Turn right (south) on Sunrise Mine Road 4065 and drive 2.3 miles to the Sunrise Mine Trail head. Hike trail 3 miles to Headlee Pass, 4,720’. From the pass, follow trail skirting around the S flanks of Sperry to the upper Vesper Creek basin between Sperry and Vesper Peaks. Campsites are available on grassy bench near trail above stream, or farther upstream near a small lake in the basin. Climbing Route • • • • • From basin campsite, hike up the Vesper scramble trail toward the head of the basin. But angle off trail, bearing to the high first notch in the ridge dividing Vesper’s N and E aspects, not to the lower, more prominent pass at the basin head. The “high” notch leads to a long ledge system that crosses north face (photo in CAG II, p 50). Scramble the ledge to near its end. Starting here, the route consists of two Class 4 pitches followed by three Class 5 pitches, but is not obvious. Climb or scramble the first 2 pitches to a small ledge. From ledge, pitch 3 traverses leftward and ascends a small shallow chimney (5.5 - 5.6) to belay. Pitch 4 again bears leftward on slabs (5.5). The final long, runout pitch works rightward to slightly west of summit (5.8). Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Scramble down east slope to camp in Vesper Creek basin. Comments • • • • • • • • • Described with 2 (easy) days in mind, this climb can be done in 1 long day. The North face has many variations with different degrees of difficulty. Route is very hard to protect and belay anchors are difficult to locate.
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07/08/13 @ 9:00 AM


07/12/13 @ 5:00 PM
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Trip Data

3
1
4

Intermediate Rock Climb
6214
0
Brisk / Fast

USGS Bedal
USGS Silverton

100 Hikes in the North Cascades National Park Region



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