Mixup Peak/E Face
Tord Kurthy (Qualified Youth Leader)
Details to come.
From Mixup Arm follow a bench at approximately 6,000' SE to a small glacier and snow field. Rope up on the glacier. Ascend to the right-hand notch (Gunsight Notch) in the ridge SE of Mixup. Be cautious of moat. From the S side of the notch, go W about 100' down a side gully. Ascend directly toward the summit about two leads to a flat shoulder (mostly class 3 with some class 4 on first pitch). From the shoulder traverse NW on an easy gray-colored staircase going past the summit until an obvious gully is reached (class 2). Ascend this until the summit ridge is reached (class 3-5.2). Follow the ridge S a short distance to the true summit (class 3-4, exposed in spots). Rockfall can be serious on this climb. Camping is not allowed at Cascade Pass or on Mixup Arm. The climb is generally done as a very strenuous one day climb with a car camp. Many parties would prefer two days. Previous rock climb experience is recommended.
Wearing rock shoes on the climbing route is permissible.