Kangaroo Temple/N Face
Jim Pitts (Qualified Youth Leader)
Climb up leftward over rib and ascend furrow, to a narrow belay ledge at a fixed pin on a steep nose. For the second pitch, traverse right along a ledge and go up and over a large detached slab boulder. Find hidden crack, shoulder high at base of steep wall for belay anchor. The 3rd pitch is short. Lead around corner to dramatic exposure. Hand traverse and step across to small belay tree of questionable merit due to its impending death. Lead crux crack at start of new pitch by finding small hand hold on left wallÑ5.4. Continue up sandy benches with good belay trees. Can unrope just below summit for scramble to top. This is a pleasurable, exciting climb with gorgeous sceneryÑbut, it is not a first climb for the timid. Rope leaders should be confident and competent. Either car camp the night before, or tent camp the previous afternoon S of Kangaroo Pass. The first pitch has some loose rock so the belayer should be careful to avoid the direct line below the climber. The remainder of climb is very sound, low 5th class rock. When traversing from Kangaroo Pass toward climb, be sure to pass beneath all major slabs. First pitch requires full rope. Parking at the switchback may not be possible very early in the season.
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