Mt Stuart/N Ridge
07/05/13 (Fri) - 07/07/13 (Sun)
Sue Bennett (Qualified Youth Leader)
9,415’, Stuart Range Grade II-III , 5.7 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Wenatchee National Forest • Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977 • Equipment: Rack to 3 1/2inches, ice axe and crampons. • USGS Maps: Mt. Stuart • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition, pp 308-313. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 61-64. Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 221-225. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 2.5 hrs 4,243’ 115 • TH to Camp 6-8 hrs +3,660’ -250’ • Camp to Summit 9-12 hrs + 1,865’ -100’ • Summit to Cars 6-8 hrs - 4,400’ +1,000’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-90 to exit 85, turn left to join Hwy 970. Drive 6.6 miles and turn left on Teanaway River road. Follow north fork road approximately 23 miles to end of road at 4,243’. Take this trail to Ingalls Pass (6,480’) and on to Ingalls Lake. From the north end outlet of Ingalls Lake traverse toward Mt. Stuart staying to the east of the ridge line until coming to Stuart Pass. Staying on the south, right, side of the ridge ascend a climbers trail to the saddle at the base of the West Ridge. Descend talus and snow below the West wall until able to ascend to Goat Pass, 7,650’. Bivy sites available here. Climbing Route • • • • • From Goat Pass, descend on snow or ice about 100’ to 200’ to the Stuart Glacier and traverse toward the North Ridge. Caution advised because the moderately steep glacier passes above some large crevasses. Also beware of falling ice and rock. To access the ridge, climb a snow filled gully leading from the glacier at 7,800’, usually via 4th class rock on the edge of the gully, to the ridge at 8,200’ and possible bivy sites. The route follows the jagged ridge crest for 11 pitches until it narrows sharply just below a giant buttress, the Great Gendarme. The gendarme can be climbed directly via a crack (5.9) for a direct finish. Most parties rappel 75’ off the right side of the ridge below the buttress, then traverse into and across a gully, snow and wet or icy rock until mid summer (low 5th class). Traverse upward to a ledge and climb another 4 to 5 pitches of class 4 and low class 5 to the summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Scramble to the false summit. Descend steep snow or scree then keep right through sparse trees to enter the Cascadian couloir, descended to the valley floor. From the base, hiking west on Ingalls Cr. trail a short distance will bring you to a fork. The left crosses Ingalls Cr. and climbs over Long’s Pass. The right leads back to Ingalls lake. Comments • • • • • • • • • Last available water is at Ingalls Lake. A very popular and crowded climb. Variations can be done, including the full North Ridge or the Great Gendarme, making the route significantly longer and more technical. Permit required. Contact Leavenworth Ranger Station, (509) 548-6997, for updated backcountry regulations for the area.
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