Mt Washington/Route 1
Hoodsport Ranger Station
From Climbers Guide to the Olympics [with additions] and ...subtractions...: "This peak is the highest point overlooking Lake Cushman and is named for its resemblance to George Washington's profile. The "chin" is the summit. Due to easy access and a variety of routes (snow and good rock) it is a popular peak. In years of heavy snowfall, the steep slopes are prone to avalanches; early climbs should be undertaken with caution." "Take the Big Creek logging road (#2419) for 6.3 miles to ... [about 100 yards BEYOND the turn-off to Upper Elinor Trail head]. Park car 100 yards S of Big Creek, and take the way trail leading westerly up through timber ... or snow ... to a large basin [3800ft]. Continue [N] up a steep rock or snow chute [In early season, stay on snow, late season cross over creek to W side and scramble N along easier rim, avoiding the steep, wet gully below. Once the top of the gully is reached at around 5000' you will be on a shoulder above tree line with the alpine portion of the climb opening up above. A short, dropping ridge with short pinnacles runs SE from shoulder. Turn and face NW to the large NE-SW ridge. There are two main routes up from here. 1) Either head NW] to a headwall; bear right [across steep, very exposed snow slopes (early season) or scree, tree and ledge scrambling (late season)] until the broad ridge stretching N is reached, [or 2) head slightly NW from shoulder @ 5000' staying on the open slopes until a headwall (Ferns Crack) is reached. Either go straight up steep snow-filled gully (early season) or cross ramp (Hamster Walk) across bottom of gully, angling back SW and up via tree-lined hidden passage next to rock (late season) to base of ridge wall to join route 1. Turn NW and traverse steep exposed snow (early season) or narrow rock ledge (Dog Walk) as you contour up and right onto the broad ridge]. Continue N to the summit block. The summit block may climbed either directly up the rock or by contouring to the right on a rocky ledge (Cat Walk) and up the steep slope on the N side." SAFETY ALERT: A report submitted in 2006 indicated that the boulder normally rapped from is now loose and is unsafe to rappel from [I'm leaving this comment here although I have no idea what rappel anchor is needed here. I looked back at 2006 reports and found no mention of this]. Always bring a rope on this climb. Early season you will be crossing steep, very exposed snow slopes so pickets and crampons should be carried. Late season, the cat walk/ridge scramble may require a fixed line for less confident students. This is a very varied climb. If you didn't like the conditions, go back next week. They will have changed :-) VERY challenging early season climb.