From 5400' camp, follow climbers trail up slabs to 5800' col and drop 150' into basin to reach the Colonial glacier. Proceed S to the pass at 6800+. Cross the NŽvŽ glacier to the ridge just W of the summit of Snowfield and scramble easily up W ridge. Around 8200', traverse left about 100' into obvious, NW facing gully. Scramble up gully about 50-100' (about half way). Traverse left, onto arete, go up about 75' (to where it steepens below pinnacle). Traverse left, then up on N side about 150' to notch between pinnacle and summit. Go up ridge 20', then traverse right on ledges to gully on S side of summit. Follow easy gully about 150' to summit. Alternatively: at notch, make a couple 4th class moves to the S (above deep gully). Scramble to the summit. This is a pleasant outing in a beautiful area with a strenuous and steep approach. The climber's trail up from Pyramid Lake is fairly brushy. Many parties choose to spend a third day in the vicinity and climb other peaks such as Colonial and Pinnacle. The glacier may be quite broken up in late season. Look for (and beware of) the large sinkholes in the glacier of Colonial Basin, which drain meltoff.North Cascades National Park has a party limit of 6 in this area.
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Basic Glacier Climb
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