From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (W) of rocky ridge. Follow this to broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500'(good camps near rocks). Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to N and follow broad snow covered ridge to top (8,868'). Summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow. Finding the log crossing at the parking lot, and the climber's trail on the other side, is very important. This climb is considered fairly grueling and strenuous because of the elevation gain over uneven ground. An early start on the approach may help. The trail is strictly a climber's trail, but has improved in recent years. If the weather is good, the views are tremendous. Because this area sustains heavy use, do not camp in Eldorado Basin. Glacier may remain passable into very late season.
This is a great one day climb, on one of the most easily accessible North Cascades peaks. I encourage you to car camp at the trailhead Friday night. You will need decent endurance for this trip. Email me if you are interested and we'll talk about conditioning. Preference given to Everett students.
Registration for this activity is being handled
by the leader. Please contact the leader directly to register for this activity.
Basic Glacier Climb
Green Trails Cascade Pass No. 80
Green Trails Diablo Dam No. 48
USGS Eldorado Peak