Mt Stuart/W Ridge
07/13/13 (Sat) - 07/14/13 (Sun)
Jennifer Elizabeth Carter
Preston P & R
• Seattle to TH 2.5 hrs 4,243’ 115
• TH to Climb 4-6 hrs + 2,500’
• Climb to LJT 4 hrs + 1,000’
• LJT to WR notch 4-5 hrs + 350’
• WRN to summit 4-6 hrs + 400’
• Summit to cars 7 hrs - 4,400’ +1,000’ Approach: Drive I-90 to exit 85, turn left to join Hwy 970. Drive 6.6 miles and turn left on Teanaway River road. Follow north fork road approximately 23 miles to end of road at 4,243’. Take this trail to Ingalls Pass, 6,480’, and on to Ingalls Lake. (Some parties take an earlier cutoff and go to Long’s Pass, then on down to Ingalls Creek, instead.) Descend to Ingalls Creek; cross the creek on a log bridge. At upper meadows of Ingalls Creek, short of Stuart Pass, ascend to base of West Ridge. Occasionally, parties opt to overnight in meadows near head of creek, to get an earlier start on the climb itself. Most parties do this climb as a carryover, with a bivy near the summit. Climbing Route: Ascend scrub and enter a deep gully on the lower ridge, the middle of three parallel gullies. This gully has a big rock “like a house” at its base. Climb up and to the right. At the end of the gully scramble through the notch and look at Long John Tower. Climb up chimney to left of the tower; it is about 3/4 a pitch with a chockstone near the start. Contine up to a notch where you will see the ridge crest and the west ridge tower; continue to the base of the tower. There are ledges around the right (south) of the tower with an airy step on the south. Do not go to the ridge crest itself, but scramble on benches about 50 yards below the crest. Scramble to the West Ridge notch. Just south of the notch, climb up easy blocks (class 4) for one full rope length. Head to the right ridge and up about 20-30 ft; traverse left via some airy steps, but with solid holds, about 1/2 a rope length. Then climb up obvious chimney for about 1/2 a rope length, and traverse right to a crack with a chockstone at the top. Scramble to below summit block, then traverse down and along benches to the south. At the end make a slightly rising traverse until no more traversing can be done, and climb up a chimney for 1/2 a rope length. Then scramble up 1 rope length to another chimney. This last pitch is about 1/2 a rope length, and look for the two pitons in the chimney. Descent: Scramble to the false summit. Descend steep snow or scree then keep right through sparse trees to enter the Cascadian couloir, descended to the valley floor. From the base, hiking west on Ingalls Creek. trail a short distance will bring you to a fork. The left crosses Ingalls Cr. and climbs over Long’s Pass. The right leads back to Ingalls lake. Comments: This athletic climb is largely scrambling on a huge granite massif. Fast efficient parties who travel light are favored. Route-finding dilemmas tend to occur at Long John Tower, at exposed section of West Ridge Notch, and in descent (not staying right). Snow patches along the route should be utilized for drinking water. Large rats, aka snafflehounds, inhabit the summit bivy area, so be careful about anything (including boots) with salt on it; they will try to eat it. Most of route is traveled unroped. The key to this climb is traveling light. Contact Leavenworth Ranger Station, (509) 548-6997, for updated backcountry regulations for the area.
This is a mentored lead for Ed Proso. Please contact email@example.com about the climb.
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