Mt Adams/Adams Glacier
08/10/13 (Sat) - 08/11/13 (Sun)
12,276’, South Cascades Grade II Ice Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Mt. Adams Wilderness / Gifford Pinchot National Forest • Ranger Station: Trout Lake Ranger Station / 509-395-3400 • Equipment: Ice axe, crampons, possibly second tool, screws, flukes, pickets. • USGS Maps: Mt. Adams East and West. • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guides I, 3rd Edition, pp 62.. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 26-27. Classic Climbs in the Northwest, pp 260-264. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3-4 hrs 4,584’ 148 • TH to Camp 3-4 hrs +2,400’ • Camp to Summit 7-9 hrs +5,300’ • Summit to Cars 5-8 hrs -7,900’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Three routes on Adams, N Face of NW Ridge, North Lyman Glacier and Adams Glacier, share the same approach, although choice of camp may vary. Take I-5 S to exit 142. Exit to State 161 and drive south until exiting at State 512W. Travel 2-3 miles and get off at Puyallup exit (Mt. Rainier sign). Drive via Eatonville to State 7, S. Drive south 27 miles to Morton and turn left at State 12 and drive east 17 miles to Randle. After registration at Randle Ranger Station drive south on Road 23 for 32 miles. Turn left on Road 2329 for 5.7 miles to Killen Creek Trailhead, 4,584’, (approx. 3-4 miles from Taklakh Lake, also see CAG I, p. 312). Follow the trail past the Pacific Crest Trail (pay attention, do not follow the PCT) and towards high camp in the meadows at 6,900’. With heavy snow, getting lost finding camp is easy, so keep your bearings. Established camps have access to water and good views of the mountain and the route. A higher bivy on snow is possible, however this entails a detour on the descent. The start of route is about 1-2 hrs from camp. Beware of fragile meadows. Climbing Route • • • • • Route goes up the Adams Glacier: exact choice of route will depend on conditions. Lately, most parties have gone up on the right side of the glacier about 2/3 of the way, then worked left to avoid crevasses. Moderate angle snow/ice climbing, especially in early season. In July, negotiating crevasses may be tricky and some parties were unable to find route. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend the North Ridge down loose scree and boulders. This part of the climb is long, tedious, sometimes dangerous, and universally described as the most unpleasant part of the climb by far. Consult Beckey’s N Ridge Route description for details. Comments • • • • • • • • • A very popular intermediate route, and a good beginning ice climb. Check on road conditions, and snowshoes may come in handy if there is a lot of snow. While a carryover and descent of the South Ridge is possible, a long car shuttle from Road 2329 to Cold Springs becomes necesary. Some parties are willing to go through a lot of trouble to avoid the infamous North Ridge. A snow finger on the NW Ridge has been suggested as an alternative descent. Hike down the North Ridge approximately 1/4 of the way down and work left down climbing on loose rock to snow finger. Be careful of rock fall down the North Ridge. Climbing fee and trail park pass required at trailhead. Ranger station closed weekends.
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