Issaquah Transit Center http://www.soundtransit.org/Rider-Guide/Issaquah-TC
6,120’, Snoqualmie Grade III Ice
Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
• Ranger Station: Snoqualmie Pass Visitor Center / 360-434-6111
• Equipment: 2 tools, pickets, screws, crampons, include pitons & rock pro.
• USGS Maps: Snoqualmie Pass
• Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition, pp 161-162.
• Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 44-46.
Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
• Seattle to TH 1 hr 3,100’ 54
• TH to Summit 6 hrs +3,000’
• Summit to Cars 3 hrs -3,000’
Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-90 East from Seattle to Exit 52, Snoqualmie Pass. Turn left and drive to the upper Alpental
parking lot, 3,100’. A cat track proceeds up the valley from the end of the lot, just left of the
stream. Proceed up the valley towards Chair Peak, first encountering Source Lake. If snow
conditions are stable, ascend up the open slopes at the valley head and make a rising traverse into
the cirque under the east face of Chair, ending at the rock called the Thumb Tack. From here, the
north face is to the right of the NE buttress, which is the right hand skyline of Chair Peak. Proceed
north from this point, up a gully to the NE ridge (avoiding the direct NE approach to the ridge).
This gully is avalanche prone (2 fatalities in 1996). Follow the ridge to the buttress, and inspect the
route, which begins about half way across the north face up a prominent open-book.
Climbing Route • • • • • The first pitch is usually a mixture of steep snow and ice, up to 70 degrees, with a belay on a
shoulder where the angle eases a little. Second pitch can be combined with the third in
simulclimbed steep snow, ending at a belay bush, off to the right. Fourth pitch has a little more
steep ice, and a belay bush. Last pitch is up to the summit ridge, where a cornice may be
encountered. From the summit ridge the true summit is up a short 20’ step.
Descent • • • • • • • • • • • From the summit, traverse over the false summit, and head east down the normal descent gully, to a
notch in the SE ridge, where rappel gullies descend to the E face basin. Downclimb or rappel
according to conditions. This brings one down to the cirque under the east face and a return to the
Comments • • • • • • • • • Snow conditions are sine qua non for this climb. It should only be attempted in below freezing
conditions, ideally after a good thaw, yielding nicely consolidated ice and snow. Expect heavy
traffic on weekends due to inclusion in Selected Climbs. Early season, this climb is often steep
unconsolidated snow, with the amount of ice on the route increasing toward March. The season is
considered from December to March.
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Registration closed on Tue, Mar 5 at 5:00 PM
Intermediate Ice Climb
Brisk / Fast
Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
USGS Snoqualmie Pass